Cognac and Pineau

On our gastronomic tour it would be remiss of us not to share the cognac experiences. Cognac is made in an area of western France just north of Bordeaux. It is an area of 80,000 hectares under grape.

Cognac is largely made from just one grape variety (90% is Ugni Blanc, also referred to as Saint-Emilion) and comes from one of five sub-regions surrounding the town of Cognac. The sub regions are determined by soil type.

Cognac is a grape spirit that is twice distilled in copper pot stills and aged at least two years in French oak barrels from Limousin or Troncais. It is 40% alcohol and matures in the same way as whisky. Most producers have it under oak for many years beyond the legal requirement.

Almost all producers in the region are under contract to the four big Cognac houses: Hennessy, Martell, Remy Martin and Courvoisier who blend and market more than 90% of the world’s cognac production. Even the highest quality smaller producers are unable to market most of their product, so rely on the majors.

We visited a regional producer’s centre and a distillery owned by our friend Augustine's father: Pascal Clair.

Good cognac has no fire when you drink it. Pascal’s aged cognac was the smoothest distilled product we’ve ever tasted. Pascal told us that unlike wine, cognac quality is greatest, when grape production is high ie less sugar in the fruit and more acidity.

Pascal also produces a product called Pineau which is the Cognac regions equivalent to the Normandy’s Pommeau. ie it is a mix of spirit and primary product, in this case grape juice. Pineau is approximately 17% alcohol. It is typical grape flavour and it has a sweetness. It is somewhat white port-like and a little syrupy.

If ever you are touring the region, stop in Neuillac, meet Pascal Clair and taste his cognac. We think he produces a better product than any of the major brands.

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