Another city that we'd not heard of prior to arriving in Spain. Caceres is a city in western Spain in the Extramadura region.
Being the end of autumn, there were very few tourists so we could explore the old town uninterrupted. We wandered the old town in a state of elevated curiosity.
Every view was of interest: a juliet balcony; the steep stairways; the narrow and winding passageways; more than 30 towers many with stork nests; a Moorish window in a Renaissance facade; an ornate church; a hidden oasis garden with oleanders and olives; Aztec inspired sandstone murals; plaza mayor; grapevines olive trees, pomegranates, persimmons and almonds, all growing on the surrounding hills.
Caceres is also increasingly becoming a food capital of the world. Modern tapas and shared dining plates is the primary style.
Lunch commences anywhere between 12:30 and 2:30 and service generally finishes around 4pm. Most restaurants don't open again, even for tapas until 8pm and generally finish after midnight.
The region produces the Iberian ham (Jamon Iberico). The pigs roam free and graze on acorns. We were fortunate enough to taste a 400 euro ham which retails at more than 100€ /kg ($A200/kg). The fat melted on our tongue and left a nutty flavour.
We learned about the labelling.
Images, logos and symbols are strictly controlled – pictures of acorns and dehesa (savannah-like open woodland with oak trees) can only be used on the label for an Iberian pig which actually ate bellotas, and roamed on this type of land.
Being the end of autumn, there were very few tourists so we could explore the old town uninterrupted. We wandered the old town in a state of elevated curiosity.
Every view was of interest: a juliet balcony; the steep stairways; the narrow and winding passageways; more than 30 towers many with stork nests; a Moorish window in a Renaissance facade; an ornate church; a hidden oasis garden with oleanders and olives; Aztec inspired sandstone murals; plaza mayor; grapevines olive trees, pomegranates, persimmons and almonds, all growing on the surrounding hills.
Caceres is also increasingly becoming a food capital of the world. Modern tapas and shared dining plates is the primary style.
Lunch commences anywhere between 12:30 and 2:30 and service generally finishes around 4pm. Most restaurants don't open again, even for tapas until 8pm and generally finish after midnight.
The region produces the Iberian ham (Jamon Iberico). The pigs roam free and graze on acorns. We were fortunate enough to taste a 400 euro ham which retails at more than 100€ /kg ($A200/kg). The fat melted on our tongue and left a nutty flavour.
We learned about the labelling.
The breed of pig
The Iberian pig, the small brown breed native to Spain, is the finest
jamon producer. Some pigs will be 100% Iberian, with both parents pure-bred.
Others will be part Iberian mixed with another breed – mother pure Iberian and
father mixed; the percentage of Iberian must be specified so its exact
genealogy can be traced.
What it was fed on
There are three categories: bellota (acorns), cebo del campo (natural grazing) or cebo (fodder).
There are three categories: bellota (acorns), cebo del campo (natural grazing) or cebo (fodder).
Where it was raised
Allowed to roam free (eating acorns or grazing naturally), or kept
enclosed in a pen (and fed fodder). When being raised free-range, the number of
pigs allowed per hectare is 0.25-1.25. For those in captivity, pigs weighing
over 110kg must have a minimum of 2 square metres each.
These are the colour-coded ropes from which the ham hangs, the colours indicate:
Black - Jamon 100%
Iberico de Bellota
This is the top category – the finest available – and indicates a
pure-bred Iberian pig which has been fed only on acorns during the montanero
period (October to February). It is free-range, being allowed to roam around
the dehesa.
Red - Jamon Iberico de Bellota
This is a pig which is part-Iberian – the percentage of Iberian breed
must be specified. The pig has been allowed to roam free, eating acorns.
Green
- Jamon Iberico de Cebo de Campo
This pig is at least 50% Iberian, and has been allowed to roam freely
eating both natural grazing and fodder.
White - Jamon
Iberico de Cebo
This pig is at least 50% Iberian, and has been kept enclosed in a pen
and given fodder.
The length of time ham is cured for is strictly controlled and there is
a minimum weight of leg. Images, logos and symbols are strictly controlled – pictures of acorns and dehesa (savannah-like open woodland with oak trees) can only be used on the label for an Iberian pig which actually ate bellotas, and roamed on this type of land.
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