1971 was the International Year of Conservation. Portugal's contribution
was the establishment of its first National Park called Peneda-Geres. It lies
on the northern border with Spain and is named after the two mountain ranges it
encompasses.
The landscape is harsh and largely inhospitable. There is a reason that
this is the last remaining stand of Iberian Wolf in Portugal.
Rising from tight gorges the exposed granite mountains climb to a height
of 1500m and beyond. The area has the highest rainfall in Portugal. Combine
this with granite rocks and you get thousands of clear running streams and
beautiful waterfalls...Just the type that would tempt you to swim on a hot
summer’s day, but now it is winter and fortunately the National Park has
numerous hot springs. We took advantage of these at Torneiros. The water enters
the pool at 50 degrees Celsius; needless to say, we sat at the colder end. It
was perfect on a clear day that did not exceed 10 degrees.
The National Park includes over a 100 villages and 15000 people call it
home. Traditional ways of life continue. Shepherd's tend to their cows and
goats high on the mountain. The sound of livestock bells tinkering and church
bells ringing marks out a rhythm of life that has changed very little in
centuries.
Every home produces grapes for wine and eating. They grow their own
vegetables and have at least one, but usually many persimmon trees, almond
trees, olive trees, and citrus trees. Grain is grown harvested and then stored
for winter use in small granite warehouses called Espigueiros. In some town the
Espigueiros are in individual’s allotments in other towns like Soajo they are
grouped together on sunny hills. They look like little mausoleums adorned with
crosses and perched upon granite legs to stop mice gaining entry.
Peneda-Geres is also known for the local breed of long horned cattle
called Cachenda. They are kept in small barns and walked to pasture each day.
Often the small towns have cattle wandering and feeding in the streets.
Peneda-Geres National Park is a rich mixture of wild inaccessible mountains
and small quirky villages and is a great place to escape everything and become
totally absorbed in the moment. It is beautiful, rugged and lost in time.
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